Tarod von Reii wrote the editor asking for advice. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with this. Can someone help him?
Tarod writes:
Question, probably mentioned before…
(Imperial Roman, per se)
Has anyone ever tried to use Veni Vidi Vici (http://www.3vwargames.co.uk/improm.htm) shield transfers for 25mm , or 15mm with HaT 20mm figures? In reading of reviews some have mentioned that the transfers are somewhat smaller than those normally painted. I am curious as to any results or experiments in their use and any tips available.
Thank you, Tarod
Dear Tarod,
Some months ago I painted a unit of 25/28 mm Foundry Roman soldiers, they are great figures to paint. I tried Foundry’s shield transfers, they were a nightmare to use. Firstly because there is no hole for the shield boss and secondly they tend to crumple in your hands. I used the Veni Vidi Vici RR7 for the soldiers. After painting the shields’ fronts red and the insides brown, I painted them with a gloss varnish. Leave to dry. Cut the shields one by one from the decal sheet. Before you put the decal in warm water wet the shield. Do not let the decal float off from it’s backing. Transfer the decal gently onto the shield and with a tissue dab gently on the transfer thus removing excess water. Repeat this procedure untill all shields are done. Leave to dry and then spray the shields with matt varnish. When they are dry fix the shields to the soldiers. Last week at ‘Crisis 2004’ I bought some “rub off shield transfers” from Little Big Men Studios. Sorry I have not tried them yet. Maybe you can check their site; http://www.littlebigmenstudios.co.uk
I hope that I was of some help to you.
Yours sincerely
Josef.
and there are pictures on the Veni Vidi Vici site of the transfers in use, so you can see what they look like on models.
I suppose the thing that makes Veni Vidi Vici transfers special is that we print the carrier film for the design as well, with the holes for shield bosses already there. It means that you don’t need to spend time cutting them out yourself.
Miniature Wargaming is part of the "adventure games" hobby, which includes r ole p laying and board games. Wargamers recreate battles on the tabletop with toy soldiers, like a more complicated game of chess. Models range in height from 6mm to 28mm tall, with 15mm and 25mm being the most popular. There also is a growing interest in toy soldiers and military models, such as the 1/32 and 1/35 scale plastic soldiers from Conte, and Marx.
The most popular miniature wargames are fantasy and science fiction based, such as Warhammer, Warhammer 40K, Warmachine and The Lord of the Rings. World War II games such as Flames of War and Axis and Allies are new favorites. Other favorite historical periods include Napoleonics, the American Civil War, and ancients, such as Romans or Greeks. Other gamers enjoy miniature naval wargames, recreating battles like Trafalgar, Jutland and the Coral Sea.
Hobbyists research historical periods and paint their tiny soldiers in accurate uniforms. Others develop "historically realistic" rules sets or build scale battlefield terrain using model railroad techniques.
For pictures, visit the gallery.
Some of the bigger hobby companies are Games Workshop, which produces Warhammer, Wargames Foundry and Old Glory Miniatures. Wizards of the Coast produces several lines of pre-painted miniatures games, such as the Star Wars and Dungeons and Dragons miniatures games, and a historical game with pre-painted miniatures: The new Axis and Allies game. Wizkids produces a fantasy collectable miniatures game, such as the Mage Knight and Heroclick fantasy games, the science fiction games MechWarrior and Rocketmen, as well as the quasi-historical Pirates of the Spanish Main.
Dear Tarod,
Some months ago I painted a unit of 25/28 mm Foundry Roman soldiers, they are great figures to paint. I tried Foundry’s shield transfers, they were a nightmare to use. Firstly because there is no hole for the shield boss and secondly they tend to crumple in your hands. I used the Veni Vidi Vici RR7 for the soldiers. After painting the shields’ fronts red and the insides brown, I painted them with a gloss varnish. Leave to dry. Cut the shields one by one from the decal sheet. Before you put the decal in warm water wet the shield. Do not let the decal float off from it’s backing. Transfer the decal gently onto the shield and with a tissue dab gently on the transfer thus removing excess water. Repeat this procedure untill all shields are done. Leave to dry and then spray the shields with matt varnish. When they are dry fix the shields to the soldiers. Last week at ‘Crisis 2004’ I bought some “rub off shield transfers” from Little Big Men Studios. Sorry I have not tried them yet. Maybe you can check their site; http://www.littlebigmenstudios.co.uk
I hope that I was of some help to you.
Yours sincerely
Josef.
Posted by Josef Briffa on 11/11 at 12:39 AM | #
We have a tips page on the use of transfers here
http://www.3vwargames.co.uk/tips.htm
and there are pictures on the Veni Vidi Vici site of the transfers in use, so you can see what they look like on models.
I suppose the thing that makes Veni Vidi Vici transfers special is that we print the carrier film for the design as well, with the holes for shield bosses already there. It means that you don’t need to spend time cutting them out yourself.
Posted by Justin Taylor of VVV on 06/10 at 06:04 AM | #